CAGE TERRITORIALITY
Liz Wilson
Parrot Behavior Consultant |
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John has an adolescent
parrot that he loves dearly, but a problem
has been developing recently that he doesn't
understand at all. When his bird is away
from its cage it's a sweetheart, but near
its cage, it turns into a monster -- lunging
and biting when John or his wife reach for
it. At first it only did this when it was
on top of the cage, but now the behavior
has expanded to the point that neither John
or his wife can safely reach into the cage
to feed and clean. The bird is also starting
to get aggressive when it is playing on
its jungle gym. John hasn't the foggiest
idea why this is happening.
Guarding One's
Turf
This behavior is called cage territoriality
or cage dominance, and like many (most?)
of the behaviors we see in captive
parrots, it has a foundation in instinct.
In the wild, a parrot must protect
its territory from invasion not only
by predators but also other parrots.
Dr. Charles Munn, in his National
Geographic article on macaws in the
Peruvian Amazon ("Macaws: Winged
Rainbows", Jan. 94), comments
that "a contributing factor in
the macaws' low reproduction rate
[in the wild] is an acute housing
shortage." An unprotected nest
is often subject to a hostile takeover
by another pair of parrots eager to
start a family. So guarding one's
territory is necessary to successfully
raise a family and therefore fulfill
the Prime Directive of propagating
one's own species. John's parrot didn't
exhibit this behavior before, because
it was just a baby.
In working with clients, I like to
use as an example the behavior of
a pair of mockingbirds who made it
on the news several times a couple
of years ago. (It must have been a
slow news week.) These birds had built
a nest in a parking garage and they
were dive bombing any humans who dared
try to retrieve their cars. After
describing the situation, I then point
out just how small a mockingbird actually
is [about 10" from beak to tail]
compared to the size of a human. To
say the least, this is a formidable
instinctive drive!
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Aberrant Behavior
In captivity we often see territorial behaviors
that have become excessive, with the bird
driving off not just strangers but other
members of the household (other flock members)
and even the person with whom the parrot
is most bonded -- the equivalent of the
bird driving its own mate away from the
nest. Obviously, this is a serious behavior
problem, which will seriously threaten the
animal's pet potential if allowed to go
unchecked. It is also extremely common.
Some people feel that a pet parrot should
be allowed this territorial behavior --
that its cage is its very own special place
and it should be allowed to do as it pleases
within that area. I emphatically do not
agree.
Just as a human child should be allowed
privacy in their own room, I feel a parrot
should be allowed to have its moods -- and
sometimes it will simply not be in the mood
to interact with its human - it is playing
happily by itself, it for example, or pondering
a particularly tough concept of astral physics.
An experienced parrot owner knows when their
bird is not in the mood by simply watching
its body language, and he/ she respects
the bird's privacy and does not approach
during these times.
However, privacy notwithstanding, I don't
feel it is acceptable for a small child
to be allowed to ban parents from his/her
room -- nor do I think a pet parrot should
be allowed to refuse their human flock entry
into its "room" -- which is what
John's parrot is doing.
If a person has a pair of breeding birds,
that is a different story -- I would liken
that to having a grown child visiting his
parents with his wife -- at which point
the rules change. In that case, I think
the young adult's room should be private
with the parents entering by invitation
only.
Establishing Nurturing Dominance
A pet parrot that is excessively territorial
is a bird who has been allowed to believe
it outranks the humans in its flock, and
is therefore, ordering these humans around.
To get this little tyrant under control,
the humans must establish a relationship
of nurturing dominance or guidance (a la
Sally Blanchard) by teaching the bird the
commands of "up" and "down"
to put controls on the bird's behavior.
This simple and incredibly effective training
technique was explained in detail in a separate
article ("Nurturing Dominance: What
It Is and How To Establish It").
As I explained in that article, the bird
is removed from its cage and control is
taught in daily training sessions that take
place on a neutral perch in a neutral territory
-- a perch (i.e. the back of a kitchen chair)
and room (i.e. a guest room or bath) that
the bird does not consider to be its own
turf. (Trying to establish controls over
a headstrong parrot while it is in, on or
even within sight of its cage is an exercise
in futility and a great way to get bitten.)
Once the bird is responding to the human's
order by stepping onto his/her hand every
time the person says Up and off the hand
onto the perch every time with a Down, then
the human can start moving the training
perch out of the neutral area and into the
area of the bird's cage. He/she needs to
move the perch slowly -- maybe only a few
inches at a time -- and then work again
on the commands, making sure the bird follows
them to the letter. To maintain consistency
from then on, the person will ALWAYS use
these commands whenever and wherever he/she
is handling the bird.
Back on the Bird's Turf.....
Once in sight of the bird's cage, the training
sessions often become more difficult, but
the person should not lose heart.
With patience and consistency (and a little
time), the bird will again respond to the
commands that it followed beautifully when
out of sight of its territory. Under NO
circumstance should the human lose his/her
temper (tempting though it may be at times),
since that usually provides the drama that
parrots love -- few things tickle them more
than making their pet person mad enough
to yell. After all, what a wonderful game!
(I discussed the Drama Reward in another
article.)
When the teacher and the pupil have at last
worked their way back to the cage, the human
should put the bird onto his perch in the
cage with the Down command, then immediately
pick him up again with the Up command. Doing
this several times in a row will teach the
bird that these commands work just as well
inside the cage as out. This process should
also be repeated on the cage top, as well
as on and around any other place where the
parrot hangs out.
New Patterns For In and Out of the Cage
From that point on, whenever the bird wants
to be let out of its cage, it must step
onto the person's hand when the human says
Up. If it refuses, then it is not allowed
out of the cage until it changes its mind
and follows the command. Under no circumstance
should the person simply open the cage door
and walk away -- this will convince the
parrot it is again in control of its life
and the humans in its flock.
Once the bird has come out of the cage with
the proper commands, if the human wishes,
the parrot can be placed on top with the
Down so it can go in and out at will. At
the end of the day, the bird should be returned
to his cage with a Down.
Altitude vs. Attitude
Always keep in mind that height is correlated
directly with dominance in the mind of the
companion parrot -- so a bird above eye
level generally considers itself higher
on the pecking order. This height significance
must be considered when choosing the training
perch, as well as with perch placement in
a parrot's cage. Aggressive birds should
not be allowed to perch higher than the
person's chest level. The top of the bird's
cage may not be a good place for the parrot
to play if it starts getting delusions of
superiority. A separate play area set on
a low table usually solves this problem.
Even after the parrot is behaving itself
around the cage (and everywhere else), the
human should keep up training sessions every
week or so, just to remind the bird that
the rules are still in force. It is also
critical that any other humans handling
the bird should use the same commands in
exactly the same manner -- ALWAYS using
the Up to get the bird on his/her hand,
and off the hand with a Down. Otherwise,
the bird will become confused -- just as
a human child does when two parents enforce
different rules.
Also keep in mind that nothing is permanent
in the mind of a parrot -- in the wild,
there appears to be a constant push-pull
going on within the flock, with challenges
happening constantly. So the human should
not be surprised when a previously well
behaved parrot suddenly refuses a command
-- it is just checking to see if the human
is really in control. By insisting the command
be followed, the human simply reaffirms
that.
So by following these easy training techniques
and handling their parrot in a firm, loving
and consistent manner, John and his wife
can get control of their headstrong bundle
of feathers -- therefore regaining the loving
relationship they used to enjoy.
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